I’ve covered a fair bit of ground in the last few days.
The sea has remained much the same, and, although it changes colour as the sun appears and disappears, it is still resolutely refusing to live up to its name. Green, blue, grey, yes. But never the Black Sea.
Except at night, obviously.
The mountains on the other side of the road have gradually shrunk as I’ve headed west. Although they still look a little intimidating. I’ll find out on Tuesday, after a day off here in the city of Samsun.
Maybe it’s the terrain, squeezing all the towns into the same shape between hills and the sea. Or maybe it’s just how things happen when small fishing villages are subject to rapid development. But every small and medium-sized town along the coast is built on an almost identical pattern.
First, there are a straggle of houses and small businesses along the main road on the way in. Then, as in the picture above, there’s a mosque in the middle. The mosque is surrounded by square blocks of flats (usually five or six storeys – the ones above are larger than usual), many of which have shops on the ground floor. And there are a few cafes and restaurants. Then, there’s another straggle of houses etc on the way out.
I’ve come to to think of this as the Lego Brick Coast.
Given that the sea and the towns have remained the same, and that the road has been flat and smooth, it’s been left to the bigger cities and the weather to keep things interesting on the bike.
Despite benign winds, there’s been a constant battle between a huge blob of rain over the hills to the south, and the onshore sea breeze.
When the breeze is winning, it’s wall-to-wall sunshine, and the riding is easy. When the rain gets its turn, it’s cold, grey and a bit miserable (as you can probably see above).
The bigger cities along the coast provide most of the personality. My ‘sea view’ at Trabzon (above) was not exactly what I was expecting, but watching the bustling port in action was a nice change.
The steep, cobbled streets of the old town of Giresun provided an unexpected cycling challenge. And that was before the guesthouse owner and his friend decided to take me out for a few beers (and English practice) on Friday night. After which, the challenge of the steep cobbles was on a whole different level.
Most of the cities have bundles of building work going on. Both Trabzon and Samsun are building new football stadiums on the outskirts. And Samsun already has some imposing architecture, which definitely doesn’t fit into the ‘Lego Brick’ category (below).
And there have been one or two smaller places which have bucked the identical towns trend. The lovely old castle and harbour at Tirebolu was the highlight for me, and probably the nicest place for a coffee break on the whole coast:
Still, the Black Sea coast, ‘Lego Brick’ or otherwise, is over for now. I’ll be cutting inland from here, across those big hills. With a bit of luck, they won’t be nearly as high as those near the Georgian border, where most of the passes are over 2000m.
I’ll use the rest day tomorrow to prepare the legs. They’ve had it much too easy for the last few days…
On a more personal note…
Today is May 1st 2016. On this day last year, I was on a sofa, watching the inaugural Tour de Yorkshire professional bike race on TV, while trying to find a comfortable position for my accident-damaged back and shoulder.
The peloton grappled with the beautiful, but rugged, North Yorkshire Moors. The riders were tackling the roads where my Dad grew up and went to school. Today, May 1st, exactly a year later, the same race was tackling the same roads again.
And May 1st was Dad’s birthday.
Dad died a few years ago, at the age of only 65. He died with dementia. A cruel way to go, and one which is still both incurable and (generally) badly treated by health and social services. It’s a disease (or rather, a group of diseases) which will affect more and more people as the global population ages. And, as Dad’s case shows, it doesn’t always wait until you’re old.
I never wanted my journey around the world to be sponsored – too many obligations and too much pressure on what is supposed to be fun. So this is not a request for money (though I’m sure the organisations below could use anything you could afford).
If you can find the time, though, please have a look at the relevant link(s) below. Inform yourself about dementia, how it affects sufferers, and just how many of those there may be in future. And then, maybe, think about doing something about it.
In the UK:
Outside the UK – Alzheimer’s Disease International has a Global List of Dementia Associations with information in your own language:
Samsun, Turkey. May 1st 2016.