Back at altitude, and dodging showers.
It’s felt like the same day over and over for the last few. With the honourable exception of yesterday (Friday), which I sat out, due to the entire day being nothing but one long thunderstorm. But I was due a rest, anyway…
It took a little while to arrive, but the rain comes with a vengeance in the hills. There was already a hint of it in the air as I left Osmancik on Thursday. But it stuck on the mountains, and didn’t do more than spit on the road as I headed gently downhill in the Red River valley (above).
The downhills haven’t lasted long, as the road’s been mainly upwards. I’m in Cerkes this evening (Saturday), due north of Ankara, and back up at around 1000 metres altitude. So every down has been paid for by a slightly longer up. And the hills have got steeper as I’ve got further in. Where the first days out from Samsun were on lovely, moderate gradients, I’ve been copping three or four 10% ramps a day on the way here.
By Thursday afternoon, as I dropped down another short valley (above), the clouds were closing in at the end. For the whole afternoon, there was at least one massive downpour lurking within a mile or two of where I was.
A man at a petrol station pointed at the sky, and performed a very entertaining and realistic mime of a wet and shivering cyclist. I was worried he might be right.
And whenever I wasn’t moving, I was staring at the sky, trying to work out if I could outrun the nearest rain before it got to the road, or whether I should stop and wait for it to pass.
If there’s an effective incentive to finish the last (uphill) few kilometres of the day, it’s seeing a bank of black clouds following you up the road (above).
But later, as this particular storm again missed the road outside, I began to wonder. There had been showers around ever since I left Samsun, and yet I’d not got wet. More surprisingly, the road had not even been wet when I got to places where showers had seemed to be minutes before.
Maybe the road, as well as being smooth and well-engineered, has some sort of magical rain-repelling properties? Maybe it’s a tunnel through the clouds.
It wasn’t yesterday. Thankfully, I’d taken notice of the forecast this time, and decided that a day off was in order. So I lay around, stuffed myself with food, and listened to the rain battering the streets outside.
But today, it seemed to be back in full effect. Showers everywhere except on the road, even when I watched downpours apparently cross the route just in front of me. I was certain I was about to get soaked three or four times, and yet I finished the day dry again. Despite a vast amount of liquid falling from the sky as I approached Cerkes this afternoon:
Whether the road really does repel the rain or not, things should clear up in the next couple of days. And, from tomorrow afternoon onwards (after one more biggish hill), I should begin dropping towards the Sea of Marmara and Istanbul.
Though, as well as pondering the weather, I’m still trying to decide whether heading to Istanbul is the best option. It’s a great city, but I know that because I’ve been there before. And, although the Bosphorus is by far the most famous border point between Asia and Europe, there are other options which don’t involve the dire Istanbul traffic.
With a bit of luck, the more downhill nature of the riding in the next few days, together with fewer showers, will give me the chance to think through my best route to Europe. I’ll let you know exactly where I’m going next time.